WHY I LOVE ITALY
“We are asleep. Our Life is a dream. But we wake up sometimes, just enough to know that we are dreaming.”- Ludwig Wittgenstein
It was a crisp May morning in 2019 when I arrived in Malpensa airport, you can feel the warm sense of Italy the minute you arrive, the air is scented, it seems people wear more perfume here, they drink more coffee, and generally more in tune to living, they embrace life in all its forms.
I was met by a Taxi driver inside the airport, carrying a large white sign that bears “Grand Hotel Tremezzo”, a handsome chap in his 60s wearing Ray-ban aviator sunglasses and swept back blonde brown hair. He seemed rather confused when he meets me “I was told to look for two people - a Mrs Tessa and a Mr Williams “Ah just me I say stretching out my hand, and introduce myself, he is called Giancarlo and asks me if I would like to take a Coffee at one of the many coffee bars before embarking on the long car journey to Tremezzo (about 100 kms from Milan) which I do and walk with him then to find his car.
Stepping into the luxury taxi is more like a private aeroplane, seats with pristine cream leather, and the whole 10 seats with no one else there, I already feel a bit spoilt.
As I told, Giancarlo, I was writing a Book called Hotel of the Stars. He proceeds to tell me every story he knows about the area, as we wind along the beautiful shores of Lake Como, he shows me where Mussolini was assassinated, where footballers got married and recounts in detail some of the vast amount of famous people he has driven in his car, “Bin Laden’s sister “, he said comes top of his list. Maybe not the first I’d add to the A listers for a Book I am writing about where stars have stayed, but she does have a draw, also he has driven Beyoncé, Jay Z, Pierce Brosnan, and of course the legendary actor of the area George Clooney. George has an almost god like status here, he must certainly have given him a good tip too.
“George Clooney is a very beautiful man and so lovely”, Giancarlo says, and then quick fire proclaims resolutely – “I’m not gay” he says – taking off his sunglasses as if to prove a point, and looking directly at me in the rear view mirror,
I agree whole heartedly, that he is amazing, and apparently George Clooney has given a lot of money to the area, and is supportive of the locals. We drive past Clooney’s house and Giancarlo the driver waves; it seems as if they are on such good terms – maybe he knows he’s actually there just now brewing a coffee on his espresso machine.
Although Giancarlo has usually been beguiled and charmed by his famous passengers, the one person he had driven he did not like was Naomi Campbell, beautiful though she was, he agreed, but not nice..
He didn’t go into too much detail but I could imagine, having met her once at New York Fashion week and nearly been trampled over by her there.
As we get closer to Tremezzo the roads get narrower, passing through the little Italian villages where old men sit outside at cafes drinking Peronis and coffee and discussing life.
There are quite a few buses that come directly in our way and Giancarlo has to screech to the side of the road almost and stop to let them pass.
After about a 2-hour drive, due to the traffic we arrive at the captivating Grande Hotel Tremezzo on the side of the Lake Como, it’s a splendid belle epoque edifice overlooking the Lake, and you enter through a lift at the ground floor.
A swarm of bell boys who look straight off the pages of L’Uomo Vogue rush to take my bags, exhaustion now hits me as I was up since 3:15 am and I didn’t go to sleep till midnight driven from my house at 5 am in Aberdeen to catch a flight at 730 in Edinburgh – so I feel a bit giddy with the lack of sleep. Am looking forward to relaxing for a bit, and just taking it all in.
Walking into the hotel you might be overawed by the richness of red everywhere, from the proliferation of red roses, red velvet sofas, and the dripping chandeliers. This is the kind of place you feel you might have arrived,
Yet as soon as I arrive – I am met by the charming Delia Facchini, the wonderful effervescent chic brunette pr lady of the hotel, who seems like a long lost friend. She immediately makes me feel at home, with a hug and an invitation to go to the Spa,
After about 10 hours travelling am not sure if Spa is what I need, but the thought to lie horizontal doing anything seems appealing, whether or not creams and facemasks are being applied.
This is no ordinary spa; this is one of the few Spas in the world that hold the coveted Santa Maria Novella heritage title.
Santa Maria Novella perfume and skincare products are one of the most revered and desired around the world having been initially created by Benedictine monks in Florence in the 1600s.
I first discovered their fascinating history some years ago researching my first book, “Cult Perfumes: The World’s Most Exclusive Perfumeries”,and was at their 400-year anniversary Occasion.
Every product has been created with such great care. So to actually to have a Spa using all their products, is a combination of combining dreams – together.
I think at this point although I was so tired, I was dreaming but clearly this was the best type of dream to have encased in Santa Maria Novella products from head to toe, and covered in warm towels. Dreams don’t come much better than this.
After my rejuvenating Santa Maria Novella spa treatment, I really felt like going back to sleep but looking at the sparkling lake Como and reflection of the blue sky, the day was just too spectacular to miss.
My room was fit for a princess from another era, with immaculate gold and white embroidered bed linen, fruits and chocolates, grapes and champagne, it was a wondrous sight for very tired eyes.
But looking out the swimming pool looked very inviting too.
I walked up to the turquoise blue pool – one of 4 at the Grande Hotel Tremezzo, and it looked s as if a fashion shoot has just left,
Model sized women of all ages were draped around the sun beds –
Though as in most locations with Wi-Fi anywhere in the world,
everyone mostly sits and stares at their phones these days – and at the pool there, no exception.
Perhaps one in about 50 now actually reads a book. Everyone’s life is perceived from the stare of their phone.
After a quick swim and a chat with some of the other quests, all as model friendly, I discover a lot of honeymooners were there and got some great snaps with them.
I take a walk to the outside pool bar across the road for an evening cocktail with Delia , the pool is cleverly attached into the Lake so it’s rather like an optical illusion of blue –upon blue.
Against the back drop of the glacier fresh mountains – it really feels like you
hit another level of paradise here.
The Barmen serve every type of gin and vodka, from geranium infused gin to negroni and prosecco cocktails. After a drink of Pineapple special cocktail,
It’s time to get ready for dinner in the Grande Terrazza, which is a Jackson Pollock inspired fish dish and a steak.
As far is this 24 hour is turning out to be, it’s really quite enchanting and spectacular to be here – I could only wish I was there for longer,
Yes, the next day is breakfast overlooking the beautiful Lake once more
And then is back into the Taxi –
This time Giancarlo is taking me to Milan train station, where I catch a Train to Florence. Onto another marvellous 24 hours..
And the opening Celebration of the World’s First Perfume Museum.